文章摘要
倒伏量对翻驳领结构影响分析
Study on Influence of Looseness on Structure of Lapel Collar
  
DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1671-5322.2012.04.017
中文关键词: 翻驳领  倒伏量  搭门宽  驳点高度
英文关键词: lapel collar  looseness  the width of overlap  the height of lapel point
基金项目:
作者单位
俞俭 盐城工学院纺织服装学院江苏盐城224051 江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室江苏无锡214122 
袁建荣 盐城工学院纺织服装学院江苏盐城224051 
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中文摘要:
      主要研究了直线状、圆弧状和部分圆弧部分直线状3种类型翻折线与翻驳领结构的相关关系,针对翻驳领结构设计中的主要难点——倒伏量进行研究,并分析翻折线变化对其产生的重要影响。通过变换驳点高度及搭门宽度来控制翻折线倾斜度,各领型分别做出ll组试样,进而研究翻折线与倒伏量的关系,最后对理论研究的数据进行成衣验证。
英文摘要:
      This paper describes the correlation among straight line shape,arc shape,partial arc line shape of three types of folding line and structure of lapel collar.According to the looseness which is the difficult part of the lapel collar design,the influence of folding lines on looseness of lapel collar is studied and analyzed through changing the width of overlap and the height of lapel points by which curvature of folding line is changed.Each type 11 experiments were made to study the correlation between folding line and structure of lapel collar.At last,garment experiments show its effectiveness.
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